Jointer vs Planer: Key Differences, Which Comes First, and How to Choose
Two machines, similar appearance, completely different jobs. The jointer and the planer are the most commonly confused tools in woodworking, yet both are essential for turning rough lumber into flat, square, dimensionally consistent stock. Understanding exactly what each machine does, why the sequence matters, and how to decide which one your shop needs first will save you significant time and money.
What Does a Jointer Do?
A jointer is the first machine in the lumber milling sequence. Its job is to create reference surfaces: one flat face and one square edge that every subsequent cut and measurement will reference from. Without a flat starting point, no other tool in the shop can produce accurate results, because every machine references off a surface you provide.
Face Jointing: Creating a Flat Reference Surface
Face jointing removes the defects that come with rough-sawn or improperly dried lumber: cup, bow, twist, and warp. The board passes over a rotating cutterhead positioned between an infeed table and an outfeed table. The infeed table sits slightly lower than the outfeed table, and the difference in height equals the depth of cut. As the board crosses the cutterhead, material is removed from the high spots until one face becomes flat. This face becomes the reference surface for every operation that follows.
A planer cannot perform this operation. Its feed rollers press the board flat against the bed as it passes through, which means a cupped board enters flat, but springs back to its original shape the moment it exits. The result is a thinner cupped board, not a flat one.

Edge Jointing: Squaring One Edge
With one flat face established, the jointer is used a second time to create a square edge. The flat face registers against the jointer fence, and the board passes over the cutterhead on its edge. The result is an edge that is straight, flat, and exactly 90 degrees to the reference face. This square edge is essential for glue-ups that close without gaps, for accurate ripping on the table saw, and for any joinery that requires a reliable reference.
What a Jointer Cannot Do
A jointer cannot create parallel surfaces. It removes material wherever the board is high without any reference to the opposite face. Run a two-inch thick twisted board through a jointer repeatedly and you will eventually have a very thin flat board, but it will not have two parallel faces. Creating parallel faces is the planer's job.
What Does a Planer Do?
A planer takes over where the jointer leaves off. Once one face is flat and one edge is square, the planer creates a second face parallel to the first and brings the board to consistent, final thickness. The flat face established by the jointer goes down against the planer bed, the feed rollers pull the board through, and the cutterhead above removes material from the top face until it is parallel to the bottom.
Because the planer references the bottom face of the board against its bed, it can only work accurately if that bottom face is already flat. A warped board run through a planer without prior face jointing will simply yield a thinner warped board. This is the core reason the two machines work as a team: the jointer creates the reference, and the planer uses it.
What a Planer Cannot Do
A planer cannot flatten a face. It cannot square an edge. It cannot correct cup, bow, twist, or warp on its own. It can make two faces parallel and bring a board to consistent thickness, but only if a flat reference surface already exists. This is why, for rough lumber, a jointer must always come first.
Jointer vs Planer: Side-by-Side Comparison
The differences between these two machines cover function, sequence, and capability. The table below puts them directly against each other across the criteria that matter most for making purchasing and workflow decisions.
|
Criteria |
Jointer |
Planer |
|---|---|---|
|
Primary function |
Flatten one face, square one edge |
Make two faces parallel, set final thickness |
|
Fixes cup, bow, twist, warp |
Yes |
No |
|
Creates consistent thickness |
No |
Yes |
|
Squares edges |
Yes |
No |
|
Requires a reference surface |
No, creates one |
Yes, needs flat face first |
|
Position in milling sequence |
Step 1 and Step 2 |
Step 3 |
|
Can substitute for the other |
Partially, with jigs |
Partially, with planer sled |
The most important row in the table is the last one. Neither machine fully substitutes for the other. A planer sled allows limited face flattening without a jointer, but it is slower, less accurate on severely twisted stock, and limited by planer width. A jointer can produce flat parallel faces through repeated passes from alternating directions, but it is impractical for final thickness work. For serious woodworking with rough lumber, both machines are necessary.

Which Comes First: Jointer or Planer?
The answer in terms of sequence is always the jointer first. In terms of purchasing order, the answer is more nuanced and depends on the type of lumber you use most.
The standard milling sequence for rough lumber follows four steps in order.
|
Step |
Machine |
Operation |
Output |
|---|---|---|---|
|
1 |
Jointer |
Face joint |
One flat reference face |
|
2 |
Jointer |
Edge joint |
One square reference edge |
|
3 |
Planer |
Thickness |
Second face parallel, consistent thickness |
|
4 |
Table saw |
Rip to width |
Final dimensions on all four sides |
Each step depends on the one before it. Running a board through the planer before step one produces a thinner version of the original defect. Ripping on the table saw before step two produces an edge at an unpredictable angle to the face. The sequence is not a convention but a mechanical requirement.
Do You Need Both, or Just One?
The right answer depends on what kind of lumber you buy and what kind of work you do. Both machines are necessary for anyone who mills rough lumber regularly, but not every woodworker needs to start with both.
If You Use Rough-Sawn Lumber: You Need Both
Rough-sawn lumber from a sawmill or hardwood dealer has no reliably flat faces and no square edges. Without a jointer, you have no way to create the reference surface the planer needs. Without a planer, you cannot bring both faces to consistent thickness after jointing. If rough lumber is your primary material, both machines are necessary and the jointer comes first.
If You Use S4S Dimensional Lumber: Start with a Planer
Surfaced-four-sides lumber from a home center or lumberyard has already been face jointed and planed at the mill. The faces are flat enough that a planer can work directly on them without prior jointing. For this type of stock, a planer is the more immediately useful purchase and can be used productively as a standalone tool. Add the jointer later when your work demands more precision or when you begin working with rough stock.

If You Do Panel Glue-Ups: A Jointer Is Non-Negotiable
Edge-glued panels for tabletops, cabinet sides, and door panels require edges that are straight, square, and consistent enough to close without gaps under clamping pressure. A planer cannot produce square edges. A table saw can come close with a quality rip blade and a clean fence, but the jointer produces the most reliable glue-ready edge with the least effort. If glue-ups are central to your work, the jointer is the priority purchase regardless of lumber type.
See more: What Does a Jointer Do? The Complete Guide for Woodworkers
On a Tight Budget: Planer First, Jointer Second
For a woodworker starting out with pre-surfaced lumber and limited budget, a planer delivers more immediate value as a standalone tool than a jointer does. A planer lets you dimension boards to exact thickness, process multiple boards to matching thickness for consistent project results, and work with pre-surfaced lumber without needing a second machine. A jointer used alone, without a planer to follow it, is limited to face flattening and edge squaring with no way to bring stock to final thickness efficiently. Buy the planer first, use it productively, and add the jointer when the budget allows.
What About a Jointer Planer Combo Machine?
A jointer planer combo, also called a combination machine, is a single machine that performs both jointing and planing functions using one cutterhead. The machine switches between modes, typically by repositioning the tables or adjusting the feed path. European manufacturers including Hammer, Felder, SCM, and Minimax have produced combination machines for decades, and they are a legitimate option for shops where floor space is limited.
How a Combo Machine Works
In jointing mode, the tables are configured like a standard jointer with the cutterhead exposed between infeed and outfeed surfaces. In planing mode, the tables fold or pivot to enclose the cutterhead from above, and feed rollers pull the board through from beneath the cutterhead. The same rotating cutterhead performs both operations; only the material path changes.
Pros and Cons of Combo Machines
The primary advantage is footprint: one machine occupies the space of one machine rather than two. The primary disadvantages are changeover time between modes, the fact that you cannot joint and plane simultaneously, and the higher cost relative to two separate entry-level machines. For small shops where floor space is genuinely scarce and production volume is moderate, a well-made combination machine is a practical solution. For shops with room for both machines, two dedicated tools offer more flexibility and faster workflow.
See more: When and How to Replace Carbide Inserts in Your Planer or Jointer Cutterhead

The Cutterhead: Why It Matters in Both Machines [CTA]
Whether you are jointing or planing, the cutterhead is the component that determines surface quality. Both the jointer and the planer use a rotating cutterhead to remove material, and the design of that cutterhead has a direct effect on tearout, noise, surface finish, and blade life.
Straight Knife Cutterheads: The Standard
Most entry-level and mid-range jointers and planers ship with straight knife cutterheads: one, two, or three long blades that span the full width of the machine. These blades strike the wood across the entire surface in a single impact. On straight-grained, cooperative lumber they perform adequately. On figured wood with reversing or interlocked grain, the full-width impact produces tearout that sanding cannot fully correct.
Spiral Cutterheads: The Upgrade Worth Considering
Spiral cutterheads replace long straight knives with rows of small carbide inserts arranged in a helical pattern around the cutterhead body. Only a few inserts contact the wood at any moment, and each one shears at a slight angle rather than chopping straight down. The result is dramatically reduced tearout on difficult grain, a noticeably quieter machine, and carbide inserts that last significantly longer than high-speed steel knives before needing replacement. When an insert dulls, it rotates 90 degrees to expose a fresh edge rather than requiring a full knife change.

Sheartak spiral cutterheads are engineered as direct-fit replacements for most major jointer and planer brands including DeWalt, Delta, Powermatic, Grizzly, Jet, and a wide range of European machines. Upgrading an existing machine's cutterhead is often the single most effective improvement available for surface quality and noise reduction.
See more: Helical vs Spiral Cutterheads: Why Sheartak Recommends Spiral for Cleaner Cuts
Explore Sheartak's spiral cutterheads for jointers and planers: Spiral Cutterheads Collection
Conclusion
A jointer flattens one face and squares one edge. A planer makes both faces parallel and brings the board to consistent thickness. The jointer always comes first in the milling sequence. For rough lumber, both machines are necessary. For pre-surfaced stock on a tight budget, start with the planer and add the jointer when your work demands it. Whichever machine you run, the cutterhead determines the quality of every surface it produces.
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